My Current Skincare Routine

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I have to admit that I’m nervous writing this skincare post because I feel rather unqualified talking about it. Given that the skin is the largest organ in the human body that performs the miraculous job of protecting us from a smorgasbord of aggressors for our entire lifetime, I think of it as deserving of the same level of expert care as the rest of our body. Hence, the medical speciality called dermatology. And hence, my hesitation to join the blogosphere in dishing out generalized skincare advice, as if I have any inkling of information on the history, concerns and sensitivities of your skin. The way I see it, skin ‘care’ may well be skin ‘treatment’ for many and if so, the small country of TikTokers delivering skincare content with no context are hardly a replacement for a dermatologist.

I could stay ranting on this soap box for days, but the point I’m making is this: skincare is about more than just cosmetic benefits. Building a healthy skincare routine is a personalized research project- genetics, skin type, the climate we live in, age are all big factors and researching effective skincare ingredients in the context of these factors is key. At risk to my own efforts here, perhaps view my routine with a critical eye if you don’t share my skin descriptors, pretty please?

This is especially important if you’re a novice skincare-r. Forgive the flashbacking here for a sec, but I remember when I was once a naive 20-something reading similar blog posts by women with porcelain skin thinking that their holy grail products would be the magic trick. Of course it wasn’t the case, and I was just spending more time and money than I liked to only end up frustrated. 🥴On the flipside, since it takes some trial and error to learn what each of our skin likes, a trusted person’s routine is a great place to start. But to accompany that with some homework and begin the skincare journey well-informed is perhaps the best tip I can offer.

SO. If you do share my skin descriptors, I hope that the things that have been helpful to me are helpful to you. But even if you don’t, I hope that you will take this information and workshop it for your own skincare journey. My daily routine has grown to be a genuine source of enjoyment and I wish the same for every lovely face that’s reading this.💗

Before we get to it, I want to say something important: LOVE the skin you’re in. Contrary to popular parlance that confers morality to our skin, it is not ‘good’ or ‘bad’… it simply is. She does the hard work of fighting off the bad guys all day everyday and I, for one, have mad respect for her, no matter how she looks. Society trains us to judge our reflections in the mirror before most anything else. Let’s reject that STAT and take care of our skin for the right reason i.e. SHE DESERVES IT. In case nobody’s told you yet, the way your face looks is the least interesting thing about you.😘❤️

My Skin Descriptors

Genetic background: Indian aka melanated AF
Skin type: Dry and Sensitive
Climate I live in: Very dry (Bay Area FTW 😅)
Age group: 30s
Skin concerns: Hormonal acne, hyperpigmentation (acne scars), early signs of aging (fine lines)

Current AM Skincare Routine

  1. Cleanse
    I do not cleanse my face every day, given that it’s dry and I want to preserve its natural oils as much as possible. I simply rinse my face with lukewarm water most mornings. On ~2 days of the week, I use a gentle cleanser. Currently, I’m using the Tula Purifying Cleanser right in the shower, which gives me that squeaky clean feeling.

  2. Vitamin C Serum
    When my skin is still slightly damp, I pat in my Maelove Organics Glowmaker serum. It’s worth taking the time to find the right % and formulation of Vit C for your skin as it’s a proven antioxidant to brighten, help with hyperpigmentation and sun protection (when paired with SPF). The Maelove serum has one of the higher %s of L-ascorbic acid (15%), plus it contains Ferulic Acid + Vit E to promote absorption. It seems like an affordable version ($36) of the worshipped Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, which is a splurge at >$160.

  3. Eye Cream
    The main under-eye concerns I try to address are dark circles and some dryness (not redness or puffiness, just FYI). For these purposes, I’ve been really liking Dermalogica’s Biolumin-C eye serum. Super moisturizing, absorbs well (key if applying eye makeup after) and although I’m dubious that the dark circles will benefit (there just isn’t a solution for that in skincare science yet), I make sure to pat the product onto both the under-eye area as well as the eyelids so that if the claims are true, the Vit C can work its magic on the pigmented skin all over.

  4. Moisturizer
    For the longest time, I’ve been a fan of the Cerave AM facial moisturizing lotion. It packs a punch with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides and SPF 30, all for a great affordable price. I get in a little massage for my neck at this step, as I’m a notorious forgetter of moisturizing it during my body care.

  5. SPF
    If nothing else, do this one thing!🙏🏽 I often regret not catching onto the basic goodness of sun protection sooner- not only can it literally save our life by preventing skin cancer, it also acts as an all around bodyguard for the skin, helping with hyperpigmentation, acne and aging. I’ve recently started using Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen and really like it- goes on matte, leaves zero white cast and layers really well with the other skincare products I’m using. I make sure to use a generous amount all over including my ears and neck every day, even if it’s cloudy and/or I’m just indoors. I also re-apply throughout the day if I’m going to be outside.

  6. Lip Balm
    Finally, I swipe on some good old lip balm. I love the Fresh Sugar Lip Balms with SPF 15, but really, I switch my lip balms up all the time. Any hydrating option works.

Current PM Skincare Routine

  1. Double Cleanse
    I rarely ever wear makeup these days (RT if you agree that Zoom’s touch up my appearance feature is a gift to humanity 🙋🏽‍♀️), but regardless, I do a double cleanse every day. For the first cleanse, I rotate between ‘washing’ my face with the Bioderma Sensibio micellar water (for sensitive skin- the pink bottle) and oil cleansing with the Biossance squalane + antioxidant cleansing oil. For the second cleanse, I rotate between the Biossance cleansing oil and Beekman 1802’s milk cleansing bar (a foam cleanser), respectively.

    I wouldn’t stress about which products to use here, as long as this general logic is followed: Use a micellar water, oil or balm cleanser first to remove products and impurities off of the skin, so that a foam or gel cleanser can then clean out the now accessible pores.

  2. Mask or Acne Treatment or Toner

    Mask
    This is certainly not a staple step in my routine but lately, I’ve been enjoying masking once or twice in a week. Now, this is step 2 if it’s a typical post-cleanse mask, but I also often do an overnight mask as step 8.

    My favorite step 2 masks right now are Beekman 1802’s goat milk mud mask (hydrating) and the Origins’ active charcoal mask (purifying). My favorite step 8 mask right now is the Laneige Water sleeping mask- it’s really soothing and feels so luxurious on a weekend night.

    You may be thinking that I haven’t mentioned exfoliation, which is a standard step 2 in many routines. This is because my skin does not tolerate frequent and/or strong exfoliants at all. I’m really careful with exfoliants for my dry and sensitive skin- products that list a chemical exfoliant among other ingredients or a gentle chemical peel with more AHAs than BHAs is the best bet. After a long period of staying away from both, I’ve been trying out Beekman 1802’s triple milk peel as step 2 once every two weeks to good results. It has a higher % of natural lactic acid (AHA) than salicylic acid (BHA) and I haven’t observed any adverse skin reactions yet.

    OR

    Treatment
    On 2 days of the week, I treat my hormonal acne (i.e. acne that concentrates on cheeks and jawline, fluctuates with menstrual cycle). A fairly recent skin issue in my late 20s and 30s, it came as a rude shock that I had after all not escaped the teenage clutches of acne forever. A couple of days/week, I use the OTC retinoid Differin right after my double cleanse. Acne aside, retinols & retinoids are the most proven anti-aging ingredients as they increase cell turnover. If you’re a retinol beginner, there are a few points to note:

    • Do your research and begin with a low % retinol infrequently, slowly scaling up. Retinoids such as Differin are at the top of the strength scale.

    • Don’t mix retinol with other active ingredients. On Differin days, I skip step 4 and simply moisturize without layering on any more actives.

    If I have active acne or feel it brewing under my skin, I also use one of two overnight spot treatments - the Indie Lee Blemish Lotion is a drying Salycylic Acid formula, or I’ll stick on a hydrocolloid patch (The Starface Hydro-Stars and the CosRX Pimple Master Patch are my favorites). Since I’m working from home now, I often even put on a CosRX patch during the day to keep the area protected from the sun, mask, etc- it goes on colorless, so video calls are A-okay!

    OR

    Toner
    On the days when I haven’t masked or used the Differin, I use a toner right after my double cleanse. Toning is not an essential step for all skin types, but has the benefits of balancing the pH of the skin and prepping it for maximum absorption of the subsequent products. I’m a recent user of the Pixi Glow Tonic and have been really liking it. The 5% Glycolic Acid is gentle enough that I can use it regularly without drying out my skin. I’ve definitely used strong astringent toners in the past which have irritated my dry skin, so I’ve made sure to use a hydrating, gentle one since.

  3. Eye Cream
    LOVE my Follain eye cream- it feels so hydrating, absorbs beautifully and I plan to totally use this in the AM too if I run out of my daytime eye cream. If you’re unfamiliar, Follain is a clean beauty site with a great curation of in-house and other clean indie brands’ skincare products. I’ve found it to also be a great resource for learning about good vs. bad skincare ingredients, which I now often use as a guide when shopping skincare. On Differin days, I switch this eye cream out for Dermalogica’s age reversal eye complex for some help in the anti-aging department. Also love how non-irritating and hydrating this cream is!

  4. Serums
    Just to re-iterate, I only use serums on non-Differin days as they’re active ingredient-packed products to target my specific skin concerns. Currently, I have a few serums on rotation:

  5. Moisturizer
    I loveee a luxurious moisturizer at night! Two current favorites that feel luxe without clogging the pores are Follain’s moisturizer and Dermalogica’s intensive moisture balance cream. Both feel velvety on my skin, often inspiring me to work in a quick massage with my fingers for an at-home spa feel. I especially like to use the relatively thicker Dermalogica cream on Differin days to combat the drying effect of the retinoid.

  6. Face Oil

    Ooh my favorite step of all! So many years later, K will still look at my lathered self post-routine and ask why I look so wet. 😆 Because facial oils are used to pack all of the above products in, they’re different than oil-based serums, which should be placed closer to the skin so the active ingredients can target the specific skin issues that they’re meant for. My biggest requirement of oils (and all products, really!) is that they be non-comedogenic. I currently rotate between a few different oils: Biossance’s squalane + vitamin C rose oil is an OG fave, The Inkey List’s 100% rosehip oil is an excellent budget option and the Trader Joe’s Vitamin E oil blend is a body-friendly face oil that you can grab on your next grocery run. I also have Biossance’s 100 % squalane oil on hand for Differin days when I need something simple with no frills. To add to that at-home spa experience sometimes, I let the oil absorb for a minute and then massage it all in using a jade roller- so deliciously soothing, although I’m not sure it actually helps with absorption or anything.😅

  7. Lip balm/Mask
    Lastly, I love a good lip mask for all-night hydration. The two I’m currently using- Bite Beauty’s agave lip mask and Laneige’s popular lip sleeping mask- are good but tbh nothing to sing praises about. For a heavy use lip balm (that the hubs also likes), the Fresh Beauty Sugar hydrating lip balms are great. This is also what I’m currently using all day- super hydrating and the flavors are all so good!

General Notes

  • Depending on your current skincare routine, you may find mine to be excessive or not. Keep in mind that I get gifted a lot of products to try even as a micro-influencer, which affords me the opportunity to identify a few hits among a lot of misses. Having done this, I can say with confidence that it is absolutely possible to pare this further down to fit your needs and wallet. Expensive does not mean effective. It’s the ingredients that matter. Also, more skincare does not mean more results. Too many actives can end up sensitizing the skin, so when in doubt, ascribing to the less is more philosophy and building a tight, streamlined routine with solid ingredients is the way to go.

  • I always wash my face with lukewarm water and never with hot water so as to not strip the skin of its oils.

  • I try to pay attention to the stuff that touches my face i.e. using a separate face towel instead of my body towel, using a silk pillowcase to sleep on, washing these frequently, not putting my phone to my face on calls and not touching my face often.

  • Much like general physical health, skin health relies on a holistically healthy lifestyle. A good diet, exercising, sleeping well and reduced stress all contribute to healthy skin as much as, if not more than, the products we use.

  • ‘Clean’, ‘natural’, etc. are hot skincare buzzwords right now, as they should be. Really cool innovations have been made in recent years by the skincare industry to replace toxic, downright harmful ingredients with safer, cleaner alternatives. However, the trade-off is that because they’re recent discoveries, evidence is as yet still building for the efficacy of a lot of these plant-based natural ingredients. Is bakuchiol the same as retinol? It isn’t. The point is, while I’m a huge fan of good clean skincare, I’m careful to examine if I’m willing to temper my expectations by using it. On a related note, while it may be tempting to clean shop one fine morning to set up a new clean routine from scratch, it’s probably unwise. My strategy has been to replace products that I run out of with a clean(er) alternative whenever possible.

  • Be flexible to your skin’s needs. While having a routine helps with consistency, staying attuned to any changes is helpful. Let’s say that the season changes or a new sensitivity develops, rethinking the current routine to make improvements is so helpful in the longer term.

  • Be patient with treatments and targeted products. I’m definitely guilty of feeling deflated when a hyped product doesn’t live up to its claims right away. Brands often make exaggerated marketing claims. We know this. But even if it’s a proven ingredient like retinol or Vitamin C, results are only as fast as cell turnover is, which takes about 28 days. Unless there are unexpected adverse reactions, give it a few weeks or even a couple of months before you give up on it.

  • Finally, I take collagen supplements (types 1&3 are for the skin) and multivitamins. I have mentioned it in this post before, but I also drink spearmint tea as often as I can. I’m not sure I can report that any of these three external factors have produced noticeable results for now, but the hope is that it all adds up in the long term.😅

And there it is! That’s everything I can think of re: my skincare. If this was overwhelming to read, I recommend bookmarking it and re-reading it in pieces later. Please also feel free to write to me with any specific questions, I’ll do my best to answer them. Skincare is an endless, constantly evolving journey. Make sure to enjoy it and have fun!

Thank you for reading and have a wonderful week(end)!
XO Sushmitha :)

Several products in this post were gifted to me, but all thoughts and opinions are my own.